The campaign to sell 2013 Bordeaux wines en-primeur was the most disastrous for 20 years, and possibly longer, but one group with more to be upset about than most are the producers of Sauternes. The damp conditions that blighted red wine production instead proved perfect for producers of Sauternes and Barsac production. The onset of botrytis at the start of October saw healthy grapes develop botrytis quickly – a set of circumstances that ensure the wines retain superb acidity, clean flavours and some nice minerality without overly high alcohol.
The wines made in Sauternes and Barsac in 2013 were generally clean, fresh and balanced wines that will age superbly yet have been priced to mitigate a disastrous en-primeur campaign shaped by the disappointing performance of the region’s red wines. For this reason we thought we should highlight one of the finest Barsacs of the vintage, Château Doisy Daëne.
Château Doisy Daëne, 2eme Cru Classé Barsac
£300 per dzn In Bond – offered en-primeur – see below*
‘Denis Dubourdieu has a created a fine Doisy-Daene, with attractive white peach and honeysuckle on the precise bouquet, which exudes wonderful transparency. The palate is very well-defined with fine acidity, the oak deftly integrated. It gradually builds in the mouth: harmonious and refined with great composure towards the long and satisfying finish. This is one of the finest Barsac wines of the vintage.’
Neal Martin – 93-95/100
Wine Advocate #212 Apr 2014
This estate is owned and run by one of the most influential Bordeaux winemakers of his generation Denis Dubordieu (Professor of Oenology at Bordeaux University and consultant to Chateau d’Yquem).
The Doisy estate was classified 2nd growth in 1855 and during the late nineteenth century was split into 3 (now Doisy Daëne, Doisy Dubroca and Doisy Védrines). This portion of the original estate was purchased by Denis Dubordieu’s grandfather in 1924. The estate has 18.2 hectares of vines, comprising 86% Sémillon and 14% Sauvignon Blanc.
The recent quality of the wines of Doisy Daëne is impressive. Since he took over control of the estate Denis has methodically applied the revolutionary winemaking techniques he has pioneered to produce wines with purity, brilliant balance and ravishingly beautiful clean fruit. Today the estate’s wines are consistently ranked among the region’s best, rivalling the quality of the best first growths from Sauternes and Barsac (i.e. Rieussec, Suduiraut or Climens) – at just two thirds of their price!
This is a wine that is normally very difficult to obtain as the cognoscenti squirrel it away on release. This year we managed to obtain a few more cases than usual and still have some available, so if you like fine sweet wines this is a very good chance to invest in a little of this.
*En Primeur Prices are priced in Sterling and Under Bond, London. Wines offered en primeur are futures, you are buying in advance, as the stock is currently lying at the château in France. We expect to ship late Spring 2015. When the wines arrive in the UK we will contact you for your delivery instructions – current options are transfer under bond to your own storage account or delivery duty paid to your nominated UK address. In the latter case duty and VAT on the total value will be charged at the prevailing rate, we will advise you of this and any UK delivery charges when contacting you.
Offered subject to availability. Errors & Omissions excluded.